The Routeburn Track

Photo credit Sierra Steiner @ Instagram/Vsco

“If I had a better memory we likely wouldn’t have done the Routeburn Track as a family.”

All I remember from doing it 20 years ago with Jason and his brother Dean was that the views were beautiful and the satisfied feeling of accomplishment at the end. The feeling of accomplishment should have clued me into the challenge it was but Jason was persuasive that it would be an incredible experience as a family. He was right, it was an incredible experience. I am grateful we did it but I do think we got a bit lucky.

The Routeburn Track is one of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks. I have issue with the word walk, it is absolutely great but it is a HIKE with challenging terrain. This hike through the Southern Alps includes the best views of the glacier carved valleys and majestic lakes. The distance is only 32km, recommended to be accomplished between 2-4 days for active adults and children over the age of 10 years old. We did it in three. My brothers could run it in a day. And we did see expert trail runners navigate the terrain with the ease of a rabbit. But we were more like turtles with heavy packs with our sleeping bags, clothes, food and water for three days. Even Birdie carried a pack and she just turned 8. But she is a determined little girl and only struggled the last hour on the last day when she said her feet felt like they were on fire. Her feet were fine not a blister, but they were sore.

We weren’t sure how Austin would do on the hike. He perfers faster pace activities like dirt biking than hiking. At one point he did say, “we chose to do this????” But in the end he loved it. He loved the extended time so close to nature. On the last day when we were all tired turtles he transformed into a rabbit and ran the last bit with his heavy pack.

We all enjoyed the fresh cold stream water along the way with the Life Straw.

The first day Sierra and Jack took off at a fast pace. They hiked the whole day just the two of them arriving at the first hut an hour and half before us. Jack said it was the most fun he ever had with Sierra. There was a deafening powerful waterfall (pictured below) the first day and many little waterfalls along the hike.

We stayed at the Lake McKenzie hut the first night. It is very basic accommodations with about 8 small burners for people to cook at and two large rooms with 40 cots each. The highlight of this night was a great talk by the park ranger, Evan, about his bird conservation project called the Routeburn and Upper Hollyford Restoration Project. New Zealand was a birds paradise long ago. There use to be no predators for the birds on the island and they were plentiful and full of variety. With development unfortunately came predators like rats and stoats and the bird population has greatly decreased. Evan has started a program of traps to attempt to bring the birdsong back to at least the Routeburn Track. We wish him success as Jason I did notice less birds this time. The lowlight of this night is the way the room is set up with cots lined up did not make for a good nights rest. But it is an absolutely beautiful spot nestled next to Lake McKenzie among the rocks and forest.

The next morning was a long hike up to the Saddlers Summit. We stuck together. Jason remembered a lot of our hike from this day 20 years ago being in the rain. I can’t imagine how our crew would have done in rain. We were blessed with great weather all three days. In everything you read to prepare for the hike it talks about preparing for rain. It always rains on the Routburn Track. That is why I say we got lucky, we had no rain! We did take breaks, lots of little short breaks.

The second night we stayed at the Routeburn Falls hut. This hut sets up their cots more like bunk beds with some privacy which was a bit better for sleeping. There are lodge options at each spot I would recommend checking out. The huts are perfectly fine if you can sleep through snoring and people rustling in their plastic bags. Everything is in plastic bags because of fear of rain.

We learned a lot on the hike about ourselves and each other. We learned sometimes it’s best just to put on your headphones and lead the pack. We learned big brothers are the best especially when it’s the last day, the last hour and you can’t carry your pack anymore.

We learned that when it comes to food keep it simple. We tried some backpacking freeze dried eggs that were horrible. We would have been better with instant oatmeal packets for sure! We learned don’t say it’s ten minutes to the hut when you really have no clue. We learned flip flops are key, getting out of hiking boots feels really good. We learned that it is hard to sleep in a room wih 40 people. We learned if you just put one foot in front of the other you will get to the end. We learned that time in nature soothes and stirs the soul. We learned living simply off the grid for a couple days is a gift. We learned that nothing is forever. And the feeling of accomplishment after a physical and mental challenge feels great!

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